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It says steyr 1903 on the left hand side of the receiver but serial number is 1108f. Was it made in 03 or 08? Is there a website with a list of proofmarks? ![]() I also have 3 different numbers on the stock. Is this when it was refurbished at arsenals? Do the numbers represent years? Thanks for any help!! Eli The Steyr 1903 is NOT an M95! It was a model contracted out to the Greeks, and does not fire the 8X50 or was ever converted to 8X56R. I'm thinking that second number is just the original s/n and has nothing to do with the date. Calguns.net > FIREARMS DISCUSSIONS > Curio & Relic/Black Powder > The Steyr M95. The serial number on the receiver. I own 2 Steyr M95 carbines. Want to sell. It says steyr 1903 on the left hand side of the receiver but serial number is 1108f. Was it made in 03 or 08? Is there a website with a list of proofmarks? Nov 07, 2013 How do I find out Steyr M95 date of. How do I find out Steyr M95 date of production. And as serial Numbers were re-started at the beginning of each. Steyr M95 8X56R caliber rifle. Austria-Hungarian military rifle. Arsenal converted to a carbine post WWI. Serial numbers are matching. Bore has strong rifling and is. Look here to see further information. This particular rifle is notable for its lack of markings. It has the short front sight, a very nice walnut stock with a brownish shellac or varnish of some kind. It has a front sight hood with two screws. It appears to have a very nicely done brown tinted bluing at some time in the distant past. The barrel and receiver match numbers, and the barrel is in excellent condition. The bolt is force matched with electrostenciled serial. Upon disassembly, I see that most of the small bits are marked with either 'K' or 'R', which I understood to be of Budapest or Austrian manufacture. Rifle has no import marks at all. On other forums, people have said it was 'scrubbed', but wouldn't that leave evidence where the metal was removed? It looks like it never had markings, like the others I've seen. Here are some pictures. I would really love to know what I have here. I've shot it and it's actually quite accurate, although it is painful as hell to shoot. [IMG]eaurrr/steyr/DSC01054_zps04dbbe08.jpg~original[/IMG] EDIT: added the following pictures of other markings. I could be wrong no doubt about that. I still think it was one of the beat ones that somebody refinished based on the fact the finish has been applied thinly and uniformly. Not slapped on like one typically sees. There are no scratches anywhere, If you notice around the sling swivel it appears someone took his time and removed it prior to finishing. The metal looks buffed not reblued, the butt plate has no scratches like you'd expect. Just my observations but again I could be wrong. The metal is definitely reblued, although it may not show very well in the photos. Under the wood, it's pretty obvious, and in very good shape. As for the buttplate, it has more of the same finish, which is to say a bluing that is more brownish in color, almost like my old Colts (but not as a high quality). Considering the normally modest prices these guns command, it seems odd that someone would would go through so much effort to refinish the whole thing this well. Another thing I'm curious about is the serial stamped into the barrel, the receiver, and the stock, and the fact that they use the 'E' suffix. I also see an 'E' stamped on the opposite side of the receiver, which leads me to ask whether the lone 'E' on one side of the receiver is related to the serial number suffix. ---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:50 PM. It looks almost identical to mine when I got it. I removed the shellac and oiled it. They did a nice refurb on a lot of them. It's not shellac like the Russians used, it's better quality and they applied it better. Do you have any pictures? I'm curious to see what markings yours has, and also the rear sight. Mine has this short site that is not fully marked to the top with graduated distance marks, which seems weird. Does yours have a banded front sight? How about any marking on the receiver? I've heard the suggestion that this one has been scrubbed, but I can't figure out why would someone even bother, and also wouldn't that leave some trace? ![]() This blog does not provide albums to the open public and has no commercial purpose. It is online for personal use, because we use GOOGLE to search in the blog. Each file is protected and the access to the actual files is restricted for the public. However, If you believe your copyright-protected work was posted on rockalbumsfree8 without authorization and legal rights, you may submit a copyright infringement notification. 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This guide is useful if you have the following problem 1. You are running Vista or Windows 7 on a Macbook using bootcamp. It can be unibody/ Macbook Pro 13/ Macbook Pro 15 or any other screen size. You have no audio/ sound. In macbook pro, you may also see a red light in your audio jack. This might also be helpful if your are having a very low sound volume. To Fix Simply follow the steps below Step 1: Download the Macbook Pro from our server. Again, do not worry if you are running Windows 7 or Vista. (As a request, please do not hotlink this file anywhere else or our server will automatically remove the file from server.) UPDATE: For newer Macbooks, you might need a newer driver which is availble Incase the above download link does not work, google “CirrusAudio.10.6.1.zip”. We found another working mirror. Step 2: Extract the right type of Driver (depending on your windows XP/ 7/ 32 bit/ 64bit) Step3: This step is only for Windows 7 not Vista. Right Click on exe file of driver. Select Properties> Compatibility > Check run in compatibility as shown below. Select Windows Vista from drop down menu and Click OK Step 4: Double click the driver and install. Run your favourite sound track because your sound is now working. You can also play the video below to test your sound. For those still having issues, go into Device Manager, select the audio device that isn’t working, right click, Update Driver Software. Click “Browse my computer for driver software” then “Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer”. There should be a compatible CS4206S or CS4206B driver that you can choose, if not, deselect the “Show Compatible Hardware” checkbox and choose Cirrus Logic from the list. You’ll get a massive list of their drivers but be careful as not all of them work. I have tested most of the 4206A and 4206B drivers (the AB 71 update from 2013 would be best). Or, alternatively for a newer more advanced working driver, download CS4207 from Cirrus Logic and click “Have disk”” and navigate to the folder you extracted the RAR to (link below) and choose the “cs420x_44.inf” file. Your audio should now work flawlessly. Cirrus Logic CS4207 download: •. Good to see that OP’s guide is helping some but it is out dated. The guide I posted in December is more up to date. Considering there is so many people having this same issue on other forums I will make a step by step guide with pictures and download links. Don’t worry, you’re not just following some random kids guide, I’m fully A++ certified, have a networking degree and I work as a top level computer technician. Just give me some time to make the tutorial. I haven’t decided on whether or not to make a new article or just post it here. The guide will have every user running working audio drivers on any Macbook running any version of Windows 7 guaranteed. So, new article or stick with comments? I don’t post on blogs/multimedia tech sites much. Original title: Windows 7 ultimate on Intel MacBook I installed windows 7 ultimate 64-bit on my macbook. The install went great and everything works like a charm except my headphone jack is red, and i have no audio, and no wifi. I installed 3.0 drivers from my Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard disc, and updated to 3.1, and it seems the update fails. This is the third day i have been trying to fix this, and i cant find anything. Apple doesn't even know what to do! I have tried DLing realtek drivers, nvidia drivers, intel chipset drivers, EVERYTHING! I don't know what to do, but i need windows for my new job! Any help will be greatly appreciated! Hi, Method 1. You need to install the sound card drivers from the sound card manufacturer's website for Windows 7. Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard disc will have Mac drivers which are not compatible with Windows 7. Contact the sound card manufacturer to obtain the Windows 7 Compatible drivers. 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